I have been writing about flashy and obscure whites for the past month. It was an attempt to bring about some warm sunny weather, and maybe have a picnic or a deck party. As I write this it is snowing. Go figure. I don't really mind though, I guess I will just have to write another column about brilliant white wine and then go backcountry skiing.

This week I picked up a bottle of Chateau Grand Cassagnes' Costières de Nîmes 2005, a blend of two lesser known Rhone Valley white grape varietals, marsanne and rousanne. Costières de Nîmes received its current AOC (highest French wine classification) status only in 1989, but before that its was known as 'Costière du Gard.'

The Romans brought grapes to this southern French region 2,000 years ago, veterans of Caesar's charges planting the first vineyards. The region lies just to the south of the Rhone Valley AOC on the Rhone River itself, near the city of Nîmes and close to Avignón. It actually lies in the eastern end of the region known as Languedoc-Roussillion.

The region produces reds, whites and rosés from grenaché, mourvedré, cinsault, marsanne, grenaché blanc and ugni blanc. Composed of medium-sized stones called cailloux or galets, the soil is exactly that of the nearby, but more famous Château-Nuef-du-Pape. The wines from Costières de Nîmes are said to resemble those wines, but being closer to the Mediterranean, they benefit more from cooling ocean breezes. The results are reds that are rich yet supple, and whites that are light and dry. As with nearly all French wine, history and culture still prevail. The wine I chose just happened to be produced by two brothers who carry on seven generations of wine-making tradition. 

I marinated on how this wine would taste all week. Would it be rich and honeyed, like northern Rhone whites blends, or would the marsanne and rousanne be a refreshing wine to enjoy with a light, summery fish like pan-seared Dover sole with lemon and thyme in white wine? To be sure the pairing would not miss, I added black japonica rice; tender, sweet, allspiced steamed red chard and a pine-nut crusted artichoke, garlic, feta, parmesan and radicchio tartlett.

The wine was shockingly brilliant. It's reception was exclamatory. There were floral and citrus notes sailing on bright golden yellow tones. Soft, round acids orbited around the front of the mouth. Green apple, kaffir lime and lychee fruits cascaded forth - persistent and caressing - like the center of the flower in the of Georgia O'Keefe painting. Conversation flowed. As the wine finished, it gently filled the sides of the mouth with supple acidity and combined with an array of both richness and freshness of the meal. Back and forth. The wine released subtle, seductive, oily scents of frankincense or myrrh and the flavors on the plate moved from winter to spring and then all the way to summer. So much random complexity yet so focused. The lime fruits and pepper spice of the wine were not only an accent, but a catalyst to the flavors swirling around the plate by now.

I swear the finish lasted for 30 minutes!

As you can tell, I really enjoyed this pairing. The Costières de Nîmes should not go unnoticed in the upcoming months, when it will get warm. But until then I will be enjoying the copious amount of snow in my backyard in the Crystal Valley and not complaining, drinking more white wine to prepare for summer garden parties.

And by the way, this Monday I will be tasting, covering and working at the first ever New Zealand industry trade show in Denver. Most of the major wineries will be represented as well as many newer arrivals to the market. E-mail me for info.

And lastly, cheers to two Roaring Fork Valley master sommeliers. Richard Betts, wine director at Montagna in the Little Nell is in the voting for the best sommelier in the land. Awesome. And Damon Ornowski, consulting winemaker, has brought Australia's Cooralook and Yabby Lake pinot noir and chardonnay from the Mornington Peninsula, along with Heathcoate shiraz from Victoria. We are blessed with all of the talent in this valley. Cheers! Remember, wine reveals truth.     

Drew Stofflet is the sommelier for Ella, in Carbondale. Correspond with him at aspendrew@hotmail.com.