On a shimmering, sunny day earlier this week I traveled west over
McClure Pass toward Paonia, to the North Fork Valley, for a meeting
with West Elk area winemakers to tour their vineyards and wineries, to
taste their wines and to hear their stories.

Through my assistance at the Woody Creek Winery for the past few
seasons, and through tasting some of the area’s wines, I already had a
lay of the land and a sense of things. I’ve heard that before the Great
Depression, the North Fork Valley had the highest concentration of
grapevines in the world. And I have heard that there are 135-year-old
Portuguese vines growing on hillsides somewhere. But this tour put
things into a much clearer picture. I was able to see the continuity
and community that the area winemakers share. They all have an
attachment to storied properties with stunning views. It is quiet. And
they have small, modern wineries that produce wines to match that
spirit.

My guide for the day was Bill Musgnung, a humble winemaker, winery
consultant and educator who moved to Paonia after spending many years
in Oregon’s Willamette Valley, working for the top wineries in the
region. Looking to separate himself from the massive growth of the
industry in Oregon, Bill saw in Paonia the possibilities of making
pinot noir in a new and promising region. He has begun a pinot noir
project and while he is waiting for the vines to mature, has released
his first Colorado wine, a rich blend of cabernet and syrah under the
Bethlehem Cellars label. Bill also recently hosted a seminar on
biodynamic farming in Grand Junction that was well attended.

Why would a guy like this move from Oregon to Paonia to make pinot
noir? The answer, according to Bill, is the four groups of people I
spent the day with.

The Black Bridge Winery is located right on the banks of the swelling
North Fork of the Gunnison River. It sits on the property that is the
Old Orchard Farms, a wonderful stretch of old apple and cherry trees.
The vineyards occupy a bench above it all, with a clear view of Lamborn
Peak and the West Elks to the south. On this 100-year-old site, Lee
Bradley and Rod Kimball grow pinot noir, merlot, chardonnay and
riesling. They talked about the weather, and told stories about the old
guys who have the knowledge of the valley and secrets of its climate.
Together, they produce soft, refreshing wines with pleasantly low
alcohol, and they sell their pinot grapes to the others in the area.
Their chardonnay had nuances of French brilliance: soft, creamy and
nutty, with fresh, pure fruit essences.

Next we went south, up on Lamborn Mesa, to visit Alfred Eames. Alfred
grows the pinot noir for his home release on his Puesta del Sol
property. He also sources fruit from Palisades for stylish merlot,
cabernet and syrah blends. Alfred’s merlot took top honors at the
Colorado Wine Fest in 2006. He also introduced us to a grape called
carmin (not carmenere) that proved one of the most solid red tastes of
the day. He is the largest producer in the AVA (American Viticultural
Area). The jewel here, however, is Alfred’s cave cellar. Everyone must
visit this room. Hand-built with stunning artistic vision, it is like a
medieval cellar, with gothic arches, wrought-iron wine-bottle
candle-lamps and a gravel floor. It transported me.

Then it was over to the north side of the valley, up on Garvin Mesa.
Here, on one of the most beautiful vineyard sites in Colorado, rests
the Terror Creek Winery. It wasn’t the spectacular vistas of the West
Elk peaks and rolling hillsides that brought Joan and John Matthewson
here in the late ‘80s, it was a research study called the Four Corners
Project. But when they found out that the Italian winemaker adjacent to
the project was selling, the couple moved in. Joan is a Swiss-trained
enologist and John spent time at Camp Hale where the Army’s 10th
Mountain Division trained. They are in their late 70s and John bragged
to me about the great winter and how they got to ski Verbier,
Switzerland for three days! At 6,400 feet above sea level, on the
second highest commercial vineyard in the world, the mountain-inspired
couple makes pinot noir, gamay, chardonnay, riesling and
gewurtztraminer. The gewurtz — a personal favorite of mine — is said to
be among the best in North America. It is rich, oily, pungent, bright,
floral and spicy. Sipping these wines and listening to their stories
while sunlight and gorgeous views poured through the windows is
something I won’t soon forget.

We ended the tour just down the road, at Stone Cottage Winery. Brent
and Karen Helleckson moved here from Boulder to get back to the earth
and to raise their family. Brent is an aerospace engineer who will tell
you that winemaking is not rocket science, it is harder! The property
they occupy is the original Plum Creek vineyard where they grow pinot
noir and chardonnay. They source their syrah fruit from Palisades. This
seems to be a trend and necessity, as the colder-climate grapes liked
pinot noir and chardonnay flourish in the North Fork Valley, while
cabernet, merlot and syrah come from Palisades. Brent’s chardonnay is
outstanding, with an unforgettable pie-crust flavor, and his ‘Alpine
Dessert Wine’ of gewurtztraminer has received wide
recognition.

The people and the wineries of the North Fork Valley are special.
Although small in production, the wines are all worthy of your
attention. The winery-tour season is upon us. All four are easy to
locate and will open around Memorial Day for the rest of the summer.
And, the area will be hosting a big film, food and wine festival later
this summer. Don’t miss it. Cheers! Remember, wine reveals truth.

Drew Stofflet is the sommelier for Ella, in Carbondale. Correspond with him at aspendrew@hotmail.com.

Of Grape & Grain’s Wine of the Week

Saint Cosme Cotes-Du-Rhone 2006
This 100 percent Syrah from a vineyard in Gigondas, in the Rhone Valley
of France, is exceptional. The wine hits you with dark rich fruit and
red flowers that lead into a tobacco, leather and tar mid-palate and
then finishes with a balanced tannin structure. After a long winter,
splurge a little and find the Francophile in you. You will not be
disappointed! Great with hard cheese, cured meats, lambcicles or around
the campfire in Moab after some much needed sunshine. Cost: $16.75