The political landscape in our nation has become very cloudy lately. The latest incident being the congressional attempt to help major Wall Street firms out of a jam. The political lines blurred dramatically, in the face of the upcoming election, and many lawmakers seemed to be unwilling to play their hands before November; and in the process, our president and outgoing staff have seemingly lost their influence for the remainder of their term.
So it is, and so it was, in 15th century Florence. This ancient and beloved region of Tuscany, known for centuries-old castles overlooking hillsides full of vines, olive trees and evergreens, suffered through several hundred years of political strife. Battles between the local republic and the long-ruling Medici family meant gaining power at any cost. Political activists and government agents often faced cruel acts of punishment and death at the hands of the opposition.
Niccolo Machiavelli came to historical prominence during this time. During the early 1500s, the poet, musician, playwright and political philosopher had many roles and responsibilities; he was a statesman and a Renaissance leader. He wrote "History of Florence" and "The Prince," his treatise on political philosophy and his grandest work. Machiavelli was also diplomat to Louis XII in France, Ferdinand II of Aragon, and to the Papacy in Rome. Then he was given charge of the Florentine militia, where he preferred a citizen militia versus mercenaries, which were commonly used at the time. Machiavelli and the citizenry were able to defeat Pisa but were eventually defeated by the Medici- and Papal-backed Spanish forces. Machiavelli was removed from office and arrested for his heavy anti-Medici stance. He was tortured in the style of the day and then released after repeated denials of involvement. History often tended to link him with the cruel, ruthless and deceitful political ways of the time. That has become subject to much revision, and rightly so, for he is now known more as a leading political philosopher, more of a raconteur than a blood letter. He was exiled to his estate outside Florence where he spent his days working and his evenings writing, and dreaming of the royalty he lost - but drinking good wine no doubt. He was guarded there by great dogs, 'mangiacane.'
For the next 500 years, Machiavelli's estate - which was designed by Michelangelo (not bad for your private exile), and displays the finest Renaissance architecture, interior design, sculpture and painting - grew and produced wine in the local style and classification, Chianti Classico. In 2000, South African Glynn Cohen bought the estate and set out to revive its half-century-long winemaking tradition. I enjoyed the 2004 Villa Mangiacane Chianti Classico Riserva with friends recently.
Timely for these political times and even better with food - violet and lush on the second day. The style of this wine represents a slightly modern vision for the estate, employing new French barriques for fermenting and aging. The wine is rich and full bodied, imparting ripe blackberry flavors and color to the familiar old-world sangiovese, with aspects of earth, tar, rose petals and violet essences. A small amount of colorino is blended to the sangiovese to enhance the subtleties. The wine is rich while retaining its structure and balance.
I enjoyed the second part of the bottle with a simple penne tossed with garden parigi carrots, delicata squash and sweet onions, with late-harvest Roma tomatoes (this almost never happens here), roasted fennel, nero Toscana (Italian kale), fresh basil (still growing), garlic, pine nuts and aged grana padano and gruyere. I splashed a little cream in and deglazed with white balsamic vinegar to finish.
The openness of the wine sang the deep floral notes of violet; purple and richly fragrant. I am forever intrigued with violet, the flower and its essence. In wine, it's treasured. The boldness and supple mouthfeel, with its pleasant acidity and astringency made the wine a beautiful pairing for the pasta. Just enough richness and texture in every bite and sip. "Force and Prudence," as Machiavelli writes in "The Prince." It describes both this wine and "the might of all governments that ever have been or ever will be in the world." Dear Prudence. ... Cheers! Remember, wine reveals truth.
Drew Stofflet is the sommelier for Ella, in Carbondale. Correspond with him at aspendrew@hotmail.com.
