This spring I am doing a series of columns on white wines. It will be
those that I have come across lately which possess these qualities:
They are bright, crisp, and refreshing; exciting to design meals around
and enjoy with; and they are on the more obscure side, offering
interesting searches and studies. They are wines for the coming warm
season and for all times. Rather than include many different wines in
one column I have decided to devote proper attention to each one. This
is the second chapter.
Aligot⁄ is a white varietal that comes from Burgandy, France and is
known to be the fourth most planted grape in the world. But it isn't
that well known, at least here in United States. Perhaps because in
Burgandy it grows in the shadows of a similar white grape, chardonnay,
which to many is the most compelling white wine on earth. Because of
that, aligot⁄ is mostly found planted on the edges of chardonnay
vineyards or relegated to lesser sites altogether. Even though in the
past two centuries the more acidic Aligot⁄ was blended into chardonnay
(in small amounts), French farmers and vignerons have replaced most
plantings with chardonnay. The grape carries only regional appellation
status granted by law in Bourgogne, thus it seems to carry no local
vineyard importance.
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